Jay-Z Wore a $1 Million Patek Philippe to the Grammys
WatchesThe Grand Complication 5304-301R combines a minute repeater with a retrograde perpetual calendar.By Oren HartovFebruary 8, 2025Photographs: Getty Images, Patek Philippe; Collage: Gabe ConteSave this storySaveSave this storySaveJay-Z isn’t one to let himself be out-Patek’d in public. Whether sitting courtside or accepting a gold statue, this is a man who always has a bigger and badder watch in rotation.Hov owns a smattering of some of the most desirable Patek Philippe watches in the world, including a gem-set ref. 5961R annual calendar; a green-dialed Cubitus; a rose gold Nautilus ref. 5990/1R; and even the legendary Grandmaster Chime, a wildly complicated piece with a multi-million dollar price tag. And while the timepiece he wore to the 67th Annual Grammy Awards last weekend might not sticker for quite as much as that ultra-complicated über-watch, it’s certainly no less flashy or desirable.Kevin Mazur/Getty ImagesPaired with Jay’s tux was the ref. 5304-301R, a combination minute repeater and retrograde perpetual calendar within the Grand Complications collection. Let’s break that down for a moment, shall we? A “complication” is—as you already know, dedicated GQ reader!—any function of a watch in addition to basic time-telling. (Chronographs, calendars, and even a simple date window are complications.) A “Grand Complication” is Patek Philippe’s term—though it’s often used by other watchmakers as well—for a timepiece that combines multiple intricate complications in a single piece. Patek makes complicated watches, and then it makes hella complicated watches. “Grand Comps” are the latter.The ref. 5304-301R in particular combines two sophisticated mechanisms: The minute repeater function chimes the time on demand, while the perpetual calendar indicates the day, date, month, phase of the moon, and leap year automatically and without the need for manual adjustment through the year 2100. Furthermore, the date indicator is of the “retrograde” variety, meaning that a dedicated hand moves in an arc across the dial to indicate the date as it progresses from one side to the other; when it reaches the appropriate final day of the month, it resets, sweeping back in regression to the beginning of its arc.And we haven’t even gotten to the 5304-301R’s killer looks yet. The 43-mm rose-gold case is only the start of this piece’s bling. The head is engraved with white-gold leafs while its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp are decorated with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. The whole shebang is paired to a black alligator leather strap. (And yes—it also tells the time.)At $924,890, the Grand Complication 5304-301R is made for dedicated collectors, serious students of haute horlogerie, and music moguls who function as the de facto mayor of New York City regardless of whoever is actually occupying Gracie Mansion at any particular time. Regardless of whether you find it charming or garish, there’s no doubt about it: Watches like this are at the top of the horological heap—which is probably why you’ll find one on Jay-Z’s wrist.David Dow/Getty ImagesPharrell Williams’ Richard Mille RM 74-02For the singer, songwriter, designer, and all-around multi-hyphenate Pharrell, only an avant-garde watch will do. The Louis Vuitton men’s creative director rocked the Richard Mille RM 74-02, a 34-mm carbon TPT and gold watch equipped with a skeletonized dial and an automatic tourbillon complication. The CRMT5 movement’s bridges are crafted from microblasted 8K 5N red gold and 18K 3N yellow gold, and a free-sprung balance with variable inertia offers enhanced chronometric accuracy. TL;DR—this is a watch that both looks cool and is also super good at telling the time. (Which is ostensibly the point, I think!)Mike Ehrmann/Getty ImagesCourtesy of BreitlingEli Manning’s Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44Two-time Super Bowl champ (and Hall of Fame snub!) Eli Manning showed up in a winning watch to the Pro Bowl last week. The Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44, housed in a 44mm stainless steel case, is meant for pilots, but works just as well terrestrially. Boasting a unidirectional dive bezel with rider tabs and a large crown and pushers for easy manipulation, it’s equipped with a sand-colored dial fitted with a triple-register chronograph and lumed sword hands. The dark chrono totalizers make for a playful riff on the “panda” dial. Powered by the brand’s automatic B01 chronograph movement and paired to a strap to match the dial, this Avenger is a cool modern chronograph.Harry How/Getty ImagesLuka Dončić’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel OpenworkedStar point guard Luka Dončić showed up to his first press conference as a Laker in style. Paired with his grey sweater and white button-down was a yellow-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, a high-end take on the (already-high-end) luxury sports watch from Le Brassus. What’s particularly special about this watch? Take a look at the dial—its blackened inner bezel,
Jay-Z isn’t one to let himself be out-Patek’d in public. Whether sitting courtside or accepting a gold statue, this is a man who always has a bigger and badder watch in rotation.
Hov owns a smattering of some of the most desirable Patek Philippe watches in the world, including a gem-set ref. 5961R annual calendar; a green-dialed Cubitus; a rose gold Nautilus ref. 5990/1R; and even the legendary Grandmaster Chime, a wildly complicated piece with a multi-million dollar price tag. And while the timepiece he wore to the 67th Annual Grammy Awards last weekend might not sticker for quite as much as that ultra-complicated über-watch, it’s certainly no less flashy or desirable.
Paired with Jay’s tux was the ref. 5304-301R, a combination minute repeater and retrograde perpetual calendar within the Grand Complications collection. Let’s break that down for a moment, shall we? A “complication” is—as you already know, dedicated GQ reader!—any function of a watch in addition to basic time-telling. (Chronographs, calendars, and even a simple date window are complications.) A “Grand Complication” is Patek Philippe’s term—though it’s often used by other watchmakers as well—for a timepiece that combines multiple intricate complications in a single piece. Patek makes complicated watches, and then it makes hella complicated watches. “Grand Comps” are the latter.
The ref. 5304-301R in particular combines two sophisticated mechanisms: The minute repeater function chimes the time on demand, while the perpetual calendar indicates the day, date, month, phase of the moon, and leap year automatically and without the need for manual adjustment through the year 2100. Furthermore, the date indicator is of the “retrograde” variety, meaning that a dedicated hand moves in an arc across the dial to indicate the date as it progresses from one side to the other; when it reaches the appropriate final day of the month, it resets, sweeping back in regression to the beginning of its arc.
And we haven’t even gotten to the 5304-301R’s killer looks yet. The 43-mm rose-gold case is only the start of this piece’s bling. The head is engraved with white-gold leafs while its bezel, lugs, and fold-over clasp are decorated with 80 baguette-cut diamonds. The whole shebang is paired to a black alligator leather strap. (And yes—it also tells the time.)
At $924,890, the Grand Complication 5304-301R is made for dedicated collectors, serious students of haute horlogerie, and music moguls who function as the de facto mayor of New York City regardless of whoever is actually occupying Gracie Mansion at any particular time. Regardless of whether you find it charming or garish, there’s no doubt about it: Watches like this are at the top of the horological heap—which is probably why you’ll find one on Jay-Z’s wrist.
Pharrell Williams’ Richard Mille RM 74-02
For the singer, songwriter, designer, and all-around multi-hyphenate Pharrell, only an avant-garde watch will do. The Louis Vuitton men’s creative director rocked the Richard Mille RM 74-02, a 34-mm carbon TPT and gold watch equipped with a skeletonized dial and an automatic tourbillon complication. The CRMT5 movement’s bridges are crafted from microblasted 8K 5N red gold and 18K 3N yellow gold, and a free-sprung balance with variable inertia offers enhanced chronometric accuracy. TL;DR—this is a watch that both looks cool and is also super good at telling the time. (Which is ostensibly the point, I think!)
Eli Manning’s Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44
Two-time Super Bowl champ (and Hall of Fame snub!) Eli Manning showed up in a winning watch to the Pro Bowl last week. The Breitling Avenger B01 Chronograph 44, housed in a 44mm stainless steel case, is meant for pilots, but works just as well terrestrially. Boasting a unidirectional dive bezel with rider tabs and a large crown and pushers for easy manipulation, it’s equipped with a sand-colored dial fitted with a triple-register chronograph and lumed sword hands. The dark chrono totalizers make for a playful riff on the “panda” dial. Powered by the brand’s automatic B01 chronograph movement and paired to a strap to match the dial, this Avenger is a cool modern chronograph.
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Luka Dončić’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked
Star point guard Luka Dončić showed up to his first press conference as a Laker in style. Paired with his grey sweater and white button-down was a yellow-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, a high-end take on the (already-high-end) luxury sports watch from Le Brassus. What’s particularly special about this watch? Take a look at the dial—its blackened inner bezel, yellow gold applied hour markers and luminescent hands hover over the openworked Audemars Piguet cal. 3132 movement, a 245-component beauty whose blackened bridges and visible jewels are a delight to behold. At $101,100 this handiwork doesn’t come cheap, but it’s about creature comforts right now for the AP-loving Dončić.
Will Smith’s Universal Genève Polerouter
Now here’s a vintage watch we can get behind. Star dealer (and friend of GQ) Mr. Eric Wind hooked up none other than Will Smith with a Universal Genève Polerouter for the Grammys. Wind brought no fewer than 17 potential watches for Smith to choose from, but given the silver trim on the actor’s Balmain jacket, a piece in steel, white gold, or platinum was the optimal choice. Amongst a sea of Rolexes, APs, Heuers, and more, Smith gravitated towards the Polerouter, an early ref S 20217-5 double-signed with a cool retailer signature: Joyeria Milos from Havana, Cuba. Fitted with a steel beads-of-rice bracelet, the watch looked supremely cool on Smith’s wrist. Hopefully with the brand’s relaunch, we’ll see many more Polerouters making the awards show rounds.
