Which Watch Brand Had the Best 2024? 40 Experts Decide

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This is Part II of GQ’s 2024 Watch Survey. To read Part I—in which our expert panel selected the watch of the year—click here.

The results of this year’s big Watch Survey, in which I polled 40 experts on the biggest brands, releases, and much else, reflect a seismic shift in the industry. For the third straight year, I asked a panel of experts a simple question: Which watchmaker or brand had the best year? Unlike past surveys, though, a majority didn’t default to Rolex, by far the industry’s most dominant player, and we have a new name at the top of the pyramid.

Cartier is the 2024 Watch Brand of the Year, as decided by 40 members of the Watch Illuminati. And the results weren’t really that close. In fact, the rising indie brand Berneron—whose Mirage timepiece was the landslide winner for Watch of the Year in the first part of our survey results—slotted in second behind Cartier.

The Parisian jeweler’s ascension, with Berneron right behind it, tells me a lot about where the industry is at right now. What’s turning collectors on is left-field design, unconventional shapes, and color in any way brands will give it to them: lacquer, enamel, marquetry, stone dials, and gems. James Lamdin, owner of the great vintage shop Analog:Shift, put it succinctly (with a well-earned exclamation point): “The collector's focus on artistic expression over function-forward design continued in 2024 to great effect!” And if enthusiasts are looking for artistry in their watches, there isn’t a brand out there that can compete with Cartier, rightfully known as the Watchmaker of Shapes.

I introduced last year’s survey, in which Rolex eked out Cartier for the top spot, by saying, “I swear it was really close.” I couldn’t say the same thing about the final results this year. Here’s what the experts said.

The 2024 Watch Brand of the Year

The final rankings are:

Chris Hall, founder, “The Fourth Wheel”: Rolex. On a purely factual basis, there can be no other answer. It isn't fun, or interesting, but everyone else has bigger problems in one way or another.

Jeff Stein, founder, On the Dash: Berneron. He delivered his first watches, introduced his second model, and is sold out for eight years. What more can one man do in a year? Genius.

@Bazamu, GQ’s Watch Collector of the Year, 2022: Cartier. The hype isn't stopping, it just keeps growing.

Luke Rottman, @the_watch_adviser: Cartier. Unseen levels of attention from the non-watch community. Deserved? Perhaps.

Mark Cho, cofounder of the Armoury: H. Moser. So many good collabs this year, like the [ones with] Massena Labs, Studio Underd0g, etc.

Charity Mhende, @pulseonthewrist: Piaget hit it out of the park in 2024, starting with a stellar display at Watches & Wonders and the much-anticipated revival of the Piaget Polo.

Jaclyn Li, consultant, Phillips: Cartier. It's as hot as ever.

Andrea Casalegno, @IAmCasa: Parmigiani Fleurier for the safe and beautiful growth!

Eric Peng Cheng, GQ’s Watch Collector of the Year, 2023, owner of Bait and Undefeated: F.P. Journe. Fully establishing itself, without a doubt, as the best of independents.

The Most Influential Watchmaker in the World…

While Rolex may have loosened its grip on the top spot in the previous category, many experts were unequivocal about its unrivaled influence on the rest of the industry.

Tony Traina, editor and founder, “Unpolished”: The answer is always Rolex, and will be for the foreseeable future. It continues to consolidate its position in the market, and its vintage pieces, while not hyperbolic, are stable (see the $2.1 million GMT-Master that went to space).

Albert Coombs, cofounder, CP Time: Rolex. It’s just that simple.

James Lamdin, owner, Analog:Shift: Cartier and Piaget continue to inspire at all levels throughout the industry, including their blue-chip luxury peers and the microbrand space.

Stephen Pulvirent, founder, Rime & Reason: Cartier. Cartier's "take the work seriously, don't take yourself seriously" attitude has become a dominant force across the industry, manifesting everywhere from small upstart watchmakers to the biggest brands in the world.

Robert-Jan Broer, founder, Fratello magazine: It's still Rolex, whether you like it or not. Everything they do gets an insane amount of attention.

Cameron Ross Steiner, founder and host, Collectors Gene Radio: Sylvain Berneron. As a person, creative, and designer, it's really hard to beat Sylvain Berneron. He’s pushing design boundaries, designing with collectors in mind, and has such a good grasp on what the future of his brand looks like.

Mhende: Cartier. More than just a watchmaker, they're a cultural icon, shaping trends and inspiring generations.

Paul Boutros, head of watches for the Americas, Phillips: Francois-Paul Journe. In just 25 years since launching his brand, the innovations and diversity of models and their evolution has set him apart from all other watchmakers.

Brynn Wallner, @Dimepiece: Cartier. I hate to hype the brand up so much, but they’re really leading the charge regarding what’s wearable and desired amongst the non-endemic watch crowd.

Danny Milton, vice president of content, Teddy Baldassarre: Rolex remains because it’s still the brand with nothing to prove—the moves it makes dictate what happens throughout the industry.

Adam Golden, founder, Menta Watches: Patek Philippe. Even weeks later, people are still talking about [president Thierry] Stern and the Cubitus.

Geoff Hess, global head of watches, Sotheby's: Cartier. When I see the Berneron Mirage, I think of the design language of the Cartier Crash, and it's easy to see the influence that the iconic Cartier Santos may have had on the creation of the Patek Cubitus.

Carlotta Parmegiani, ladies’ watch specialist, Monaco Legends Auction: Patek Philippe. Hard to beat a legacy of brilliance.

The Next Great Brand

Panelists were given a simple task: “Name a brand that is on the rise in 2024.” The diversity of responses reflect how verdant the watch industry is right now. Answers ranged from supermodern indies like Vanguart to centuries-old French houses like Hermès and Louis Vuitton.

Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches, Material Good: Vanguart! Very serious watchmakers, and the Orb is one of the best timepieces of the year!

James Dowling, author: Hermès. Horological chops plus name recognition.

Sacha Davidoff, cofounder, Roy & Sacha Davidoff S.A.: Biver. I was skeptical last year at their launch and the minute repeater carillon tourbillon watch, but having seen the new automatic I truly see the vision and potential there.

Jessica Owens, supercollector: Chopard continues to impress me. Each year they continue to master the balance between elegance and engineering, raising the bar each time.

Nick Ferrell, founder, DC Vintage Watches: Christopher Ward. Their rise has been quick and well-earned, given their willingness to work with private or government institutions to make custom watches

Jasper Lijfering, owner and CEO, Amsterdam Vintage Watches: Cartier. Both vintage (look at auction results) and modern (look at resale) are dominating Instagram.

Zach Blass, editor, Time and Tide: TAG Heuer. Julien [Tornare, who served as the brand’s CEO from January to September of this year before shuffling over to Hublot] got the ball rolling, but I have a sense that the brand is going to tighten up its offerings and deliver higher quality. Also, the Kith collab gave TAG some needed mainstream crossover appeal.

Max Abbott, cofounder, The Keystone: Daniel Roth. I think leadership is doing a great job honoring the history while focusing on the future.

Lamdin: Universal Genève. Breitling's announcement of their acquisition of this storied brand in late 2023 has left the enthusiast community licking their lips with anticipation. There is such a deep well of history and design to draw from, and expectations are so high, that the brand's imminent relaunch will certainly have wide ranging effects throughout the industry.

Milton: I really believe Longines is on the comeback trail in a big way. It’s a true heritage brand that keeps delivering hit after hit at the right price for today’s market.

Pulvirent: Parmigiani Fleurier. They've been "on the rise" for a few years now, but the release of the new Toric collection and smart extensions of the Tonda PF have Parmigiani continuing to climb in both esteem amongst collectors and influence across the industry.

Broer: Louis Vuitton. The new Escale collection, including the Cabinet of Wonders, shows LV is to be taken very seriously when it comes to watchmaking.

The Biggest Trend in Watches Is…

Dowling: Smaller and slimmer, but not stupidly so.

Kristian Haagen, supercollector and author: Shapes. Elegance. Anti-complications.

Coombs: Smaller and thinner watches.

Casalegno: Shapes and design coming back to bring us emotions!

Jacek Kozubek, founder, Tropical Watch: Smaller watches.

Cho: I'm glad to see some smaller watches being made. I'm not advocating for all watches to be small, I am advocating for a balanced range of sizes for different people to choose from.

Wallner: I sound like a broken record, but teeny-tiny watches just won’t go away and I’m happy about it. Ultimately, they make the watch market more inclusive by welcoming smaller-wristed enthusiasts, women, and otherwise.

I could print a bunch more of these quotes about shrinkage, but you get the idea. Not everyone was talking about size, though. Many celebrated the fact that collectors are learning to appreciate less traditional watches. Some couldn’t get over the explosion of stone dials while others were watching the market.

Abbott: People choosing watches for themselves and not for what other people think or where they think the market is going. The hype has died down and people have confidence to buy for their own style. Whether it is type of metal, dial color, case shapes, or brands—people are open to being different.

Broer: I love the trend of people going for more individual and personal choices, rather than following the herd. It changes the horological landscape in a positive way. We now see more diversity, rather than always the same watches.

Blass: Stone dials. It’s great to see this ’70s pastime brought back. It really gives distinct character and bold color to watches that can feel plain without them.

Lamdin: The collector's focus on artistic expression over function-forward design continued in 2024 to great effect!

King Flum, founder, “ScrewDownCrown” newsletter: Discounts on retail prices, brands becoming less arrogant, and the Cubitus dissonance.

Pulvirent: I am seeing more creativity in watches than I've ever seen before. There are more young people and people coming into watches from other industries and with other backgrounds, bringing a ton of energy and excitement to the table, not to mention ideas outside the orthodoxy. Watchmaking can be really conservative sometimes, and I love seeing people color outside the lines a bit more.

Milton: I’m loving a return to new, modern designs of the moment and the shift away from “vintage-inspired”—it’s very 2004 in the best way.

The Most Underrated Watchmaker or Brand in the World Is…

I’m of two minds here. I liked Davidoff’s clear-eyed and sober answer directly below. With the pervasiveness of social media, it’s hard to argue that brands don’t have a fair chance to stake out their territory and go from underrated to properly rated. However, I also can’t believe Chopard isn’t finding a bigger audience! If anything, this is a fun place to find your next love. After combing through the responses to this, I want to follow in Li’s footsteps and develop an unhealthy obsession with Logan Kuan Rao.

Davidoff: I don’t believe in underrated brands anymore. Underperforming, maybe. Today communication is far easier than it was, so if a brand is not performing well, then it’s either design, price, or quality that’s not optimal.

Owens: Chopard I feel is super underrated. This past year they've gotten just a fraction of the attention they deserve, but it is growing. To me, nobody does elegance and engineering better. It’s still a brand that has maintained its ethos while adapting to new markets.

Milton: It’s strange to say this, but somehow in the context of what they do and their independence, I think Chopard is the most underrated brand at the moment.

Parmegiani: Piaget. As much as it is on the rise, I feel like it still does not get the attention it deserves. Its archival designs and history, there is truly so much to appreciate.

@Bazamu: Urban Jurgensen. People are starting to come around to the early models, but the brand as a whole is still the most slept-on independent in watches. Maybe its formal relaunch in the near future will change that.

Hall: I think relative to its consistent approach to innovation, Ming is seriously underappreciated.

Cho: Ming. So many innovative case and dial designs, so many interesting designs with complications like their monopusher chronograph—yet all people want to obsess over is the "high" price. The price is actually extremely reasonable given what they're doing.

Traina: Chopard, specifically its L.U.C collection. I'm not sure people understand how limited the production is, and a handful of my favorite modern watches live in the L.U.C line: 1860 Lucent Steel, 1860 Flying Tourbillon, et cetera.

Hess: Hermès. This great Maison produces jaw-dropping, creative dials that much of the watch community has yet to discover.

Li: I’m currently very obsessed with a single-person independent brand called Logan Kuan Rao—specifically the Wu-Wei model he introduced.

Ferrell: Yema! Between bringing back favorites from their storied past and taking chances on new designs, Yema is severely slept on in my assessment.

Boutros: Vacheron Constantin. Stunningly high quality, original, elegant designs and a great product range make this storied, historic brand better than most collectors realize.

Lijfering: Chopard. Still a family owned company that hold quality and longevity in high regard.

And a great hot-ish take from Stephen Pulvirent.

Pulvirent: This is going to sound like a silly answer, but I genuinely think it's Rolex. People who spend a lot of time around watches often end up taking Rolex for granted, but it's impossible to overstate their importance to the health of the broader watchmaking ecosystem. The fact that they continue to make watches at the scale and quality that they do, while continuing to evolve and grow such a storied brand, is no small feat.

What was the biggest news in the watch industry in 2024?

It’s time for the Cube!

Li: Patek's first new line in 27 years.

Owens: I mean, how can we not say the Cubitus?

@Bazamu: I don't know if it was the most "important," but the Cubitus collection from Patek made the biggest waves, and it wasn't even close.

Golden: Cubitus, duh.

Dowling: Rolex opening the Bucherer store in Shanghai with retail on the lower floors and CPO on the top floor at a much higher price.

Trang Trinh, @girlsoclock: Toledano & Chan fetching $20,000 at Sotheby's just a month after the brand's launch.

Hess: Hodinkee being acquired by Watches of Switzerland. Two great titans coming together.

Lamdin: The success of the Rolex CPO program is a signal that the way pre-owned watches are treated by manufactures, retailers, and collectors is going through a massive change.

Traina: The continued slowdown in the market. Some brands are slowing production lines, so it'll be interesting how this all shakes out. Will there be brand casualties? I doubt it, but I question the viability of some of these brands.

King Flum: The complete tanking of the industry in 2023 and 2024.

Mhende: The biggest news in 2024 was the watch industry's growing focus on younger, more gender-fluid consumers. Brands are adapting with smaller sizes, versatile designs, and inclusive marketing. While some are leading the charge, others are slower to change and it will be interesting to see how that continues to evolve.

Ross Steiner: The resurgence of John Lennon's Patek 2499.

Please meet our esteemed panel of experts, listed in alphabetical order:

• Adam Craniotes, founder, RedBar
• Adam Golden, founder, Menta Watches
• Albert Coombs, cofounder, CP Time
• Andrea Casalegno, @IAmCasa
• Alexander Kaiser, collector
• @Bazamu, GQ’s Watch Collector of the Year 2022
• Brynn Wallner, founder, @Dimepiece
• Cameron Ross Steiner, founder and host, Collectors Gene Radio
• Carlotta Parmegiani, lady’s watch specialist, Monaco Legends Auction
• Charity Mhende, @pulseonthewrist
• Chris Hall, founder, The Fourth Wheel
• Danny Milton, vice president of content, Teddy Baldassarre
• Eric Peng Cheng, GQ’s Watch Collector of the Year 2023, owner of Bait and Undefeated
• Geoff Hess, global head of watches, Sotheby's
• Jacek Kozubek, founder, Tropical Watch
• Jaclyn Li, collector, Consultant at Phillips NY
• James Dowling, author
• James Lamdin, owner, Analog:Shift
• Jasper Lijfering, owner and CEO, Amsterdam Vintage Watches
• Jeff Stein, founder, On the Dash
• Jessica Owens, founder, Daily Grail
• Johnson Lee, super collector
• King Flum, founder, “ScrewDownCrown” newsletter
• Kristian Haagen, super collector and author
• Luke Rottman, @the_watch_adviser
• Mark Cho, owner, The Armoury and Drake's
• Max Abbott, co-founder, The Keystone
• Nic James, @CartierWatchNerd
• Nick Ferrell, founder, DC Vintage Watches
• Paul Boutros, head of watches in America, Phillips
• Robert-Jan Broer, founder, Fratello Magazine
• Sacha Davidoff, co-founder, Roy & Sacha Davidoff S.A
• Stephen Pulvirent, founder, Rime & Reason
• Tony Traina, Editor & Founder, Unpolished
• Trang Trinh, @girlsoclock
• Yoni Ben-Yehuda, head of watches, Material Good
• Zach Blass, editor, Time and Tide

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