The Best New Watch Brand of 2024 Is Already Back With a Red-Hot Sequel

Last year was a goldmine for hot new watch brands, between asymmetrical oddities and classic all-American ones. However, no debut was better received than Toledano & Chan and its B/1 inspired by Brutalist architecture. Back in May, everyone’s favorite affable British conceptual artist/super-collector Phil Toledano combined forces with talented watch designer Afred Chan to bring us the B/1, a distinctly architectural wristwatch inspired by NYC’s Breuer Building and the offbeat Rolex Midas. Unfortunately, the watch sold out faster than you can say “Marcel Breuer” three times. Fortunately, it’s getting an even more handsome sequel.

That’s right, fellow Brutalists: The new B/1.2 picks up where the concrete-looking B/1 left off by swapping out the blue lapis lazuli dial for a shimmering face in Tahitian mother-of-pearl. The biggest aesthetic impact comes from the new crystal, which is now shaped like the watch head, hands, and bracelet links. If you liked all the sharp angles of the B/1 you’ll love this iteration with an asymmetrical crystal that juts out and mirrors the shape of the watch. It’s a subtle change but watches are all about the tiny details and Toledano & Chan nailed this one.

The rest of the design is largely the same as that of the B/1: The stainless steel watch head—which is brushed and takes on the aspect of a Brutalist structure—is asymmetrical, with a trapezoidal shape that leads up to a sloping rightward case flank. The crown, much like that of the Rolex Midas, is situated on the left side of the case, and the shaped crystal and bezel follow the case lines. (Designed by Gérald Genta, the Midas took inspiration from classical Greek architecture.) The steel bracelet is integrated in the mode of ‘70s classics, but its links also follow the profile of the watch head, with a distinct, trapezoidal shape and a subtle taper—an excellent touch.

At 33.5mm wide, the B/1.2 is perfectly sized for all collectors. The shaped sapphire crystal covers a beautiful Tahitian mother-of-pearl dial devoid of any text or other interruptions save that from the hour and minute hands—which, like the case and bracelet, features a trapezoidal profile on the stubbier hour hand while the minute hand is a slightly more conventional dauphine shape. (To keep the dial as clean as possible, there is no sweep seconds hand.) Inside the watch is the Swiss-made, automatic Sellita SW100 movement, which provides 42 hours of power reserve and is typically used in smaller watches like this one.

With the shaped crystal providing a bit of refraction and interplay with the MOP dial, this iteration of Toledano & Chan’s popular Brutalist masterpiece may provide the brand with an even wider audience than its debut B/1. That’s saying something because the relatively affordable timepiece (priced at $4,000) has already made its name for itself among collectors desperate to get their own. Special-edition one-off versions have already sold for $35,560 and $24,000 on the auction scene. So keep your eyes peeled for the new B/1.2, set to go up for sale in March. At $5,700, it’s sure to go quickly.