Rolex Is Still the World’s Most Dominant Watch Brand, According to Data
WatchesCollectors might have more diverse tastes these days, but a new report suggests that the Crown still holds a commanding lead over its competitors.February 21, 2025Photographs: Rolex, Getty Images; Collage: Gabe ConteSave this storySaveSave this storySaveAll products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.There is no doubt that the watch industry has become more interesting and diverse over the past several years. Independent brands like Berneron or Rexhep Rexhepi challenge the dominant players in terms of quality, creativity, and desirability. But keeping up with watches is like being an avid television watcher. No matter how popular shows like The White Lotus or Severance feel when your social media feeds and text chains are popping, their viewership numbers pale in comparison to the truly mass stuff like Yellowstone. That’s how I felt looking at the latest annual report from the secondary marketplace Bezel, which analyzes sales and consumer behavior data from its $700 million worth of watch listings.It’s always useful to be reminded that Rolex is still far and away the most sought-after brand in the world by leaps and bounds. Over the past year, the Crown represented 36% of all sales on Bezel, more than double the second-biggest brand on the platform. Omega is next with 14%, while Tudor (Rolex’s sister brand!) is third with 12% of sales. All this tracks with the latest view into the modern watch market from Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, which found that Rolex’s 30% share towers over the rest of the brands. On that report, Cartier ranks second with 8% market share.In data exclusively provided to Box + Papers, Bezel broke down how Rolex got to that massive number. The secondary platform shared its lists of the top 10 most-wanted models and series—the former ranks specific references (like, say, the “Hulk” Submariner) while the latter looks at the watch model as a whole (all Submariners).Two things that surprised me on the first list were the top watch and the sheer dominance of Rolex pieces. Here is the full list of models:Rolex GMT-Master II "Batman"Rolex Datejust 41 "Wimbledon" / Fluted / JubileeRolex GMT-Master II "Batgirl"Rolex Submariner Date 41 "Starbucks"Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3861 Steel / Black / Sapphire / BraceletRolex Submariner 41 DateRolex Daytona "Panda" / Ceramic / WhiteRolex GMT-Master II 'Gray & Black' Steel / Ceramic / JubileeRolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi" / JubileeRolex Submariner "Hulk"When you write and talk about watches for a living, you tend to get a sense of Rolex’s magnitude—and yet, this list still blew me away. Besides the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, one of the most iconic models in the world, no other brand even cracked the top 10. What also stood out to me was that the most well-represented watch is the GMT-Master II. People want it on Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, they want it in blue and black, red and black, and with the new monochromatic bezel. Out of every single listing on Bezel’s website, 4 out of the 10 most-wanted pieces are GMTs! The GMT has always been near the top of my favorite Rolex families, but I would have guessed the Daytona would show up more on this particular list.Bezel’s most-wanted series list, meanwhile, allows other brands a better chance to chart:Rolex DatejustOmega SpeedmasterAudemars Piguet Royal OakRolex GMT-Master IIRolex DaytonaRolex SubmarinerTudor Black BayRolex Day-DateCartier Santos de CartierOmega Seamaster Diver 300MYou can always count on the Datejust to come out on top. As the main entry point into the Crown for many aspiring collectors, it remains Rolex’s best-selling model. The rest of the list looks like the industry’s greatest hits save for the ninth spot. I’m not surprised to see Cartier here, but I would have guessed that the Tank, rather than the Santos, would’ve made the cut.Other key findings from Bezel’s report:Brands on the riseAlthough they aren’t taking up huge pieces of the pie, several brands are tending their own corner of the industry well. Grand Seiko, Tudor, and Breitling are all on the up and up, according to Bezel. The common denominator with these brands is that they offer serious value in the luxury watch space—especially Tudor and Grand Seiko. The latter continues to produce some of the most beautiful and unique dials in the industry, with some of its best pieces priced new in the neighborhood of $6,000 (or for a good deal less on the secondhand market).Making the dream watchI appreciate that Bezel got into the nitty-gritty with regard to collectors’ design preferences—even if none of the results are all that jaw-dropping. The best-selling dial color? Black, followed by blue. The runaway leader in case material? Stainless steel, which represented 69% (don’t do it!) of Bezel’s sales. Two-tone watches were next at a measly 11%.The only mild surprise is that the best-selling case size was 41 millimeters. In fact, 40-plus-mm watches m
All products are independently selected by our editors. If you buy something, we may earn an affiliate commission.
There is no doubt that the watch industry has become more interesting and diverse over the past several years. Independent brands like Berneron or Rexhep Rexhepi challenge the dominant players in terms of quality, creativity, and desirability. But keeping up with watches is like being an avid television watcher. No matter how popular shows like The White Lotus or Severance feel when your social media feeds and text chains are popping, their viewership numbers pale in comparison to the truly mass stuff like Yellowstone. That’s how I felt looking at the latest annual report from the secondary marketplace Bezel, which analyzes sales and consumer behavior data from its $700 million worth of watch listings.
It’s always useful to be reminded that Rolex is still far and away the most sought-after brand in the world by leaps and bounds. Over the past year, the Crown represented 36% of all sales on Bezel, more than double the second-biggest brand on the platform. Omega is next with 14%, while Tudor (Rolex’s sister brand!) is third with 12% of sales. All this tracks with the latest view into the modern watch market from Morgan Stanley and LuxeConsult, which found that Rolex’s 30% share towers over the rest of the brands. On that report, Cartier ranks second with 8% market share.
In data exclusively provided to Box + Papers, Bezel broke down how Rolex got to that massive number. The secondary platform shared its lists of the top 10 most-wanted models and series—the former ranks specific references (like, say, the “Hulk” Submariner) while the latter looks at the watch model as a whole (all Submariners).
Two things that surprised me on the first list were the top watch and the sheer dominance of Rolex pieces. Here is the full list of models:
- Rolex GMT-Master II "Batman"
- Rolex Datejust 41 "Wimbledon" / Fluted / Jubilee
- Rolex GMT-Master II "Batgirl"
- Rolex Submariner Date 41 "Starbucks"
- Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 3861 Steel / Black / Sapphire / Bracelet
- Rolex Submariner 41 Date
- Rolex Daytona "Panda" / Ceramic / White
- Rolex GMT-Master II 'Gray & Black' Steel / Ceramic / Jubilee
- Rolex GMT-Master II "Pepsi" / Jubilee
- Rolex Submariner "Hulk"
When you write and talk about watches for a living, you tend to get a sense of Rolex’s magnitude—and yet, this list still blew me away. Besides the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch, one of the most iconic models in the world, no other brand even cracked the top 10. What also stood out to me was that the most well-represented watch is the GMT-Master II. People want it on Oyster and Jubilee bracelets, they want it in blue and black, red and black, and with the new monochromatic bezel. Out of every single listing on Bezel’s website, 4 out of the 10 most-wanted pieces are GMTs! The GMT has always been near the top of my favorite Rolex families, but I would have guessed the Daytona would show up more on this particular list.
Bezel’s most-wanted series list, meanwhile, allows other brands a better chance to chart:
- Rolex Datejust
- Omega Speedmaster
- Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
- Rolex GMT-Master II
- Rolex Daytona
- Rolex Submariner
- Tudor Black Bay
- Rolex Day-Date
- Cartier Santos de Cartier
- Omega Seamaster Diver 300M
You can always count on the Datejust to come out on top. As the main entry point into the Crown for many aspiring collectors, it remains Rolex’s best-selling model. The rest of the list looks like the industry’s greatest hits save for the ninth spot. I’m not surprised to see Cartier here, but I would have guessed that the Tank, rather than the Santos, would’ve made the cut.
Other key findings from Bezel’s report:
Brands on the rise
Although they aren’t taking up huge pieces of the pie, several brands are tending their own corner of the industry well. Grand Seiko, Tudor, and Breitling are all on the up and up, according to Bezel. The common denominator with these brands is that they offer serious value in the luxury watch space—especially Tudor and Grand Seiko. The latter continues to produce some of the most beautiful and unique dials in the industry, with some of its best pieces priced new in the neighborhood of $6,000 (or for a good deal less on the secondhand market).
Making the dream watch
I appreciate that Bezel got into the nitty-gritty with regard to collectors’ design preferences—even if none of the results are all that jaw-dropping. The best-selling dial color? Black, followed by blue. The runaway leader in case material? Stainless steel, which represented 69% (don’t do it!) of Bezel’s sales. Two-tone watches were next at a measly 11%.
The only mild surprise is that the best-selling case size was 41 millimeters. In fact, 40-plus-mm watches made up 56% of Bezel’s sales, while smaller watches flagged well behind. True vintage-sized, 36-mm pieces took up only 10% of sales, while 39-mm pieces—which I consider a sweet spot—got only 8% of the pie. (Of course, Bezel is more geared toward more modern pieces, which come in larger sizes, and 39-mm watches aren’t nearly as common as those measuring 40, 41, or 42 mm.)
