Panjiayuan Market Revisited: What's Changed?
I used to love spending a Saturday afternoon treasure hunting at Panjiayuan Market when I first arrived in Beijing. But like so many other things in this wonderful city, Covid shut it down for a period of time and I've not back since. That is until recently, when some friends and I made an impulsive decision to go and check it out after dinner one night. And I’m so glad we did! For those new to the market, it was officially established in 1992 but has been in the city since the late '80’s/early '90’s depending on which source you read. Part of the reason it’s so difficult to get an exact date is because it began completely informally. A small group of neighbors would lay down blankets in the dirt, which is why Panjiayuan is sometimes referred to as the dirt market, and sell or trade furniture, art, pottery, clothing or anything else from their homes they no longer wanted. Basically, it was Beijing’s version of a yard sale. Fast forward about 40 years and locals, foreigners, and Chinese tourists alike stop in for everything from calligraphy to crickets. We saw tons of Chinese handicrafts and artists with permanent store fronts alongside the traditional blanket on the ground covered in a hodge podge of coins, jewelry and trinkets. It’s vibrant and exciting and easy to spend hours wandering around. For those of you, who like me, haven’t been in a while there are a few changes. The market used to close at 6pm but we were there in the evening and when we left around 7.30pm it was still hopping. A huge neon sign lights the entry way and there were lots of food stalls set up throughout, whereas the last time I came there was a single jianbing stand. The Market itself is larger than I remember as well and there is a lot more diversity in the products on offer. It had more of a night market vibe similar to places in Vietnam and Thailand I have visited. It was unexpected and frankly a really nice change of pace from the normal evening options in Beijing. A Few Things You Should Know Shop Around: Many stalls have unique items but most things you're interested in will be sold at multiple stalls and I often got different prices. The same drawstring gift bag was three different prices at three different stalls. Pro Tip: If it’s a relatively common/non-original item check the cost on Taobao to get an idea of what it should be! Haggling is Acceptable (even expected) but be respectful, especially if you are dealing with the artist themself. Remember this is their livelihood. You don’t want to be taken advantage of but don’t take advantage of them either. Dress for the Weather: It is an outdoor market so bundle up in the winter and wear good walking shoes. Talk to the seller: If your Chinese is good enough or if they are able to speak English (some were conversational) ask about the products you are interested in. Knowing the history of a piece makes it special. Where is the coin from, which dynasty is that style of pottery, what does that symbol mean culturally? Tchotchkes are great but having something meaningful to hang on your wall or gift to a friend back home allows you to share and relive what makes your time in China special. Where it is: The Market is in the Jinsong residential district between the East 2nd and East 3rd Ring Road. The easiest way to get to it is to take subway Line 10 to Panjiayuan Station. If you're taking a Didi just type in Panjiayuan Flea Market as your destination. Panjiayuan Antique Market 潘家园旧货市场No.18 Hua Weili, Panjiayuan Lu, Chaoyang District 朝阳区-潘家园路华威里18号Hours: 9am-11pm READ: Visit Here: Yuan Dadu Ruins Park Images: Julie Wolf, Uni You Provided:Paid:
I used to love spending a Saturday afternoon treasure hunting at Panjiayuan Market when I first arrived in Beijing. But like so many other things in this wonderful city, Covid shut it down for a period of time and I've not back since. That is until recently, when some friends and I made an impulsive decision to go and check it out after dinner one night. And I’m so glad we did!
For those new to the market, it was officially established in 1992 but has been in the city since the late '80’s/early '90’s depending on which source you read. Part of the reason it’s so difficult to get an exact date is because it began completely informally. A small group of neighbors would lay down blankets in the dirt, which is why Panjiayuan is sometimes referred to as the dirt market, and sell or trade furniture, art, pottery, clothing or anything else from their homes they no longer wanted. Basically, it was Beijing’s version of a yard sale.
Fast forward about 40 years and locals, foreigners, and Chinese tourists alike stop in for everything from calligraphy to crickets. We saw tons of Chinese handicrafts and artists with permanent store fronts alongside the traditional blanket on the ground covered in a hodge podge of coins, jewelry and trinkets. It’s vibrant and exciting and easy to spend hours wandering around.
For those of you, who like me, haven’t been in a while there are a few changes. The market used to close at 6pm but we were there in the evening and when we left around 7.30pm it was still hopping. A huge neon sign lights the entry way and there were lots of food stalls set up throughout, whereas the last time I came there was a single jianbing stand. The Market itself is larger than I remember as well and there is a lot more diversity in the products on offer. It had more of a night market vibe similar to places in Vietnam and Thailand I have visited. It was unexpected and frankly a really nice change of pace from the normal evening options in Beijing.
A Few Things You Should Know
Shop Around: Many stalls have unique items but most things you're interested in will be sold at multiple stalls and I often got different prices. The same drawstring gift bag was three different prices at three different stalls.
Pro Tip: If it’s a relatively common/non-original item check the cost on Taobao to get an idea of what it should be!
Haggling is Acceptable (even expected) but be respectful, especially if you are dealing with the artist themself. Remember this is their livelihood. You don’t want to be taken advantage of but don’t take advantage of them either.
Dress for the Weather: It is an outdoor market so bundle up in the winter and wear good walking shoes.
Talk to the seller: If your Chinese is good enough or if they are able to speak English (some were conversational) ask about the products you are interested in. Knowing the history of a piece makes it special. Where is the coin from, which dynasty is that style of pottery, what does that symbol mean culturally? Tchotchkes are great but having something meaningful to hang on your wall or gift to a friend back home allows you to share and relive what makes your time in China special.
Where it is: The Market is in the Jinsong residential district between the East 2nd and East 3rd Ring Road. The easiest way to get to it is to take subway Line 10 to Panjiayuan Station. If you're taking a Didi just type in Panjiayuan Flea Market as your destination.
Panjiayuan Antique Market 潘家园旧货市场
No.18 Hua Weili, Panjiayuan Lu, Chaoyang District
朝阳区-潘家园路华威里18号
Hours: 9am-11pm
READ: Visit Here: Yuan Dadu Ruins Park
Images: Julie Wolf, Uni You
