Is HIFU Worth The Hype?

I have a complicated relationship with modern beauty. Like everyone else, I hate the narrowly defined, impossible to attain standards we are trained to aspire to. On the other hand, I love getting my nails done and genuinely feel my most confident and powerful in heels.

To add to my cognitive dissonance, I work with students who are developing their own sense of bodily antonymy and I want them to see me model the message that we are all beautiful in the package we came in, but that can be hard to live up to on days when I don’t feel my most beautiful. To help me navigate these psychologically fraught waters, I came up with personal value guidelines that I feel comfortable and authentic following.

1. Investing in good skin care is health, not vanity. The same way I go for walks to keep my heart healthy I moisturize to keep my skin healthy.
2. Make-up, manicures and Manolo’s have value ONLY when they make me feel good so I opt in when I want to but I’m not obligated to.
3. No Needles, No Knives!  When it comes to esthetics, non-invasive only. This is a personal choice and I fully support anyone who chooses differently for themselves. But for me, the risks of fillers, Botox and facelifts outweighs any potential benefits.

Rule three meant I would need to just learn to love the little smile lines and the slight double chin I was developing from four decades of gravity. But then this summer I started seeing “HIFU” everywhere.  The facial that promised miracles; the complexion of a 25 year old with no lines, a sculpted jaw/brow, and results that last for a year.

Basically, the claim was a non-invasive facelift. After several sleepless nights that started with reading medical studies and ended down the influencer rabbit hole, I decided it met all three of my rules and I wanted to try it out. Here is what I discovered but please remember this is my personal experience, not facts. I am not a doctor or scientist and my results will not necessarily be yours. 

What is HIFU?

HIFU stands for High Intensity Focused Ultrasound and according to Medicalnewstoday.com "A HIFU facial uses ultrasound to create heat at a deep level in the skin. This heat damages targeted skin cells, causing the body to try to repair them. To do this, the body produces collagen to aid in cell regrowth." 

Basically, as we get older our bodies make less collagen, so our skin gets thinner, becoming more prone to sun damage, lines, wrinkles and general aging. HIFU tricks your body into producing more collagen.

To Know Before:

• You won’t see instant results- it takes about three months for the average person to see a significant change. 
• Results should last for a year or more, however you will need to commit to a good skin care routine.
• This is not a relaxing day at the spa. It takes about two hours to complete, and it is uncomfortable (some people say painful). 
• Many people experience minor swelling and discomfort after the procedure (Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology) so avoid planning to go out immediately after.
• It is not cheap. In the USA I saw ads with rates ranging from USD 1,500-2,500. Here in Beijing it is significantly less but still a large financial commitment. I had my face and neck done for RMB 4,800 (USD 650).

The Procedure:

It started with a good cleansing of my skin and then a numbing cream was applied. A grid was drawn on my face with what looked like a white eyeliner so the technician would know where to focus the waves.  Another gel was then applied to my face to help conduct the ultrasound waves and then the technician placed the machine wand to my face and began treating the area.

This was the uncomfortable part for me. Each area received a series of short bursts and then the wand was moved a centimeter or two to the next area. Most of the time it just felt like very light taps on my skin but maybe every fourth or fifth tap it would feel like I received a small shock (think touching a doorknob after shuffling across the carpet). I wouldn’t call it pain (everyone’s definition and tolerance is different) but it didn’t feel good. I found my jawline and cheekbones were more sensitive.

Once all passes were complete the gel and grid lines were wiped off and a moisture mask was applied. I was instructed not to wash my face for 24 hours and to use only cold water and mild face wash followed by lots of SPF moisturizer for a week. 

The Results:

• Day 1: The next day my face felt warm, was mildly swollen and very dry. I applied cold packs and moisturizer throughout the day.
• Day 3: The swelling and heat were completely gone and the muscles of my face felt a little tight but not painful. I still needed more moisturizer than normal but otherwise business as usual.
• Day 7: Not a drastic difference but my skin did look brighter and it could have been wishful thinking but the small lines around my eyes were less obvious. This was also the first day I wore foundation, and it felt like it applied more smoothly, and I needed less.
• Day 30: It’s not my imagination. The lines around my mouth and eyes are reduced, my eyelids/brows are less hooded and the subtle double chin I was developing is clearly in remission. I also received several compliments over the last week or so from people mentioning I looked “rested” or asking if I was using a new foundation/skincare etc.
• Day 90: At the three month mark I was really happy with the results. They are subtle. It didn’t turn back the clock to my 20's but I feel like a brighter more vibrant version of myself.  I find myself opting for less make up and I like that I appreciate the image in the mirror without the need for a daily pep talk.

My Take Away:

Is it for everyone, No. It is not the miracle facelift replacement that YouTube would have you believe; it is expensive and less then pleasant to undergo. But for me it was worth it if the results truly last for a year. If my budget permits I would consider doing it again down the road.

Where to Find a Provider in Beijing: 

While this is a relatively safe procedure if done correctly, it is not without risks so it is important to do your due diligence. My first suggestion would be to talk to your regular facialist and/or dermatologist. You want someone who knows your skin and that you trust. Secondly, we all want a bargain so shop around, but remember to be wary of any deal that seems too good to be true. If it’s 50 percent cheaper than every other quote you have gotten, there is probably a reason. Lastly, see if any of your friends have had the procedure, they may be able to make a recommendation that isn’t tied to a view count or monetized.

I had mine done at Tina’s Spa in IDCity Shunyi. You can scan the QR code below to contact them.

For those in Shuangjing and Sanlitune Alice Beauty has a good reputation and can be contacted via the QR code below.

A friend of mine was considering getting one through Soyoung Clinic which is a chain of beauty providers across China with several in Beijing. The best way is to contact them is via their WeChat mini program, just search "新氧青春".

READ: Keep Your Healthy New Year's Resolution With These Meal Plans

Images: Canva, YouTube